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现行 ASTM D6193-16(2020)
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Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams 缝线和接缝的标准实施规程
发布日期: 2020-07-01
1.1 本规程涵盖了缝制物品制造中使用的缝线和接缝的要求和特性。 1.2 本规程确定了缝制物品制造中使用的针脚类型和接缝类型的类别、形成和一般用途。 1.3 在对包括示意图索引的缝线和接缝进行一般性讨论之后,本实践由以下部分组成,这些部分按出现的顺序列出: 1.3.1 部分 5. — 图形显示在缝合中的缝合类型的分类 图1- 69 , 注1: 这种类型的缝合应通过将材料的边缘折叠成“S”形折叠,将原始边缘向下翻转以形成成品边缘,并用一排缝线穿过两个折叠进行缝合。 1.3.3 附件A1 — 接缝组装建议。 1.4 本标准并不旨在解决与其使用相关的所有安全问题(如有)。本标准的使用者有责任在使用前建立适当的安全和健康实践,并确定监管限制的适用性。 1.5 本国际标准是根据世界贸易组织技术性贸易壁垒委员会发布的《关于制定国际标准、指南和建议的原则的决定》中确立的国际公认的标准化原则制定的。 ====意义和用途====== 4.1 接缝工程,即确定特定组件应使用的最佳缝合类型、接缝配置和螺纹类型,需要对许多变量有全面的了解。 任何一个部件的选择不当都可能导致缝合接头的故障,最终导致生产的产品的故障。 4.2 一般特征-- 结构合理的缝合缝的特点是强度、弹性、耐用性、安全性和外观。这些特性必须与待接合材料的特性相平衡,以形成最佳缝合接缝。物品的最终用途将决定这些特征的相对重要性。接缝类型和针脚类型的选择应基于这些考虑因素。 4.2.1 力量 缝合接缝的接缝效率应尽可能高。这将产生具有平衡结构的缝合接缝强度,该结构将承受在使用缝合物品时遇到的力。 影响缝合接缝强度的因素有: 4.2.1.1 织物类型和强度, 4.2.1.2 接缝类型, 4.2.1.3 缝合类型, 4.2.1.4 缝合密度(spi), 4.2.1.5 螺纹张力,以及 4.2.1.6 螺纹强度。 4.2.2 弹性 缝合接缝的弹性应略大于缝合材料的弹性。这将使材料能够支撑其在缝合物品的预期最终用途中所遇到的力的份额。缝合接缝的弹性取决于: 4.2.2.1 织物类型和强度, 4.2.2.2 接缝类型, 4.2.2.3 缝合类型, 4.2.2.4 缝合密度(spi), 4.2.2.5 螺纹张力,以及 4.2.2.6 螺纹弹性。 4.2.3 耐久性 缝合接缝的耐久性在很大程度上取决于其相对于接缝的弹性和材料的弹性的强度。 然而,在弹性较低、编织紧密或密度较大的材料中,帘布层有相互“工作”或滑动的趋势。为了在这些类型的织物中形成耐用的缝合缝,必须仔细选择线的尺寸。还需要仔细确定材料的针脚密度,以免造成过度张力,从而使弹性失衡并导致褶皱。最大限度地减少与外部机构接触造成的磨损也很重要,以提高耐用性。 4.2.4 安全 缝合接缝的安全性主要取决于缝合类型、spi及其易散开性。针脚必须与材料很好地匹配,以防止可能导致线断裂和某些针脚类型散开的钩住。 4.2.5 外貌 缝合线的外观通常由线的尺寸和类型、针脚密度以及织物的质地和重量之间的适当关系决定。 4.2.5.1 除了这些一般特征外,缝纫机操作员的技术和技能也决定了缝合线的外观。一些会对外观产生不利影响的因素如所示 表1 .
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items. 1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items. 1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear: 1.3.1 Section 5 — Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1- 69 , Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding the edge of the material in an “S” fold with the raw edge turned under to form a finished edge, and stitching through the two folds with one row of stitches. 1.3.3 Annex A1 — Seam Assembly Recommendations. 1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee. ====== Significance And Use ====== 4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured. 4.2 General Characteristics— The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations. 4.2.1 Strength— The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are: 4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength, 4.2.1.2 Seam type, 4.2.1.3 Stitch type, 4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi), 4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and 4.2.1.6 Thread strength. 4.2.2 Elasticity— The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon: 4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength, 4.2.2.2 Seam type, 4.2.2.3 Stitch type, 4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi), 4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and 4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity. 4.2.3 Durability— The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully determined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which will unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is also important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with outside agencies to promote durability. 4.2.4 Security— The security of a sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unraveling of certain stitch types. 4.2.5 Appearance— The appearance of a sewn seam generally is governed by the proper relationship between the size and type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of the fabric. 4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, the technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also govern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table 1 .
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归口单位: D13.54
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